Category: Mountains

If downhill is your favorite direction, then the ride from Cuajimoloyas to Lachatao should get you really excited! Both of these villages are part of the Pueblos Mancomunados, a collection of eight very small communities high in the Sierra Norte mountains of Oaxaca state, about 30 miles northeast of the capital of Oaxaca. Cuajimoloyas sits at an altitude of 10,398 feet (3169 meters), while Santa Catarina Lachatao registers 6986 feet (2129 meters) on the altimeter.

This particular ride follows dirt roads that connect the two. You can also ride between these villages using a singletrack footpath that covers a portion of the distance before linking with the same roads – but taking the path requires hiring a local guide (to support the local economy and prevent your getting hopelessly lost in the forest).  If you look at a map, you will see that it is also possible to extend the ride by doing a detour to Yavesia on the way to Lachatao – again using either dirt roads or unmarked footpaths in the woods. And, of course, you can make this either a one-way or out & back trip.

However you accomplish the ride, there are logistical considerations. Both towns are rather remote. There is bus and colectivo service to each place from Oaxaca city every day. But there is no service between these villages. We managed a one-way ride by leaving our van in Cuajimoloyas and hiring a resident of Lachatao to haul us back to our starting point. That wasn’t cheap (400 pesos) but was better than the alternative – which was to crank back up over 4500 vertical feet  over 18 miles and riding several hours after sunset.

The route shown begins at the ecotourism office in Cuajimoloyas, where you pay the 50 pesos per person fee to enter the communal lands, and ends at the village church in Lachatao. The distance between the two is 18.4 miles (29.6 km). The elevation gain along the way amounts to 1116 feet (340 meters), while the downhill totals 4530 feet (1381 meters). The downhill sections are fun and fast! Our group managed to complete the ride in about three hours, pausing frequently to take photographs. We also had a late breakfast in Cuajimoloyas and stopped for lunch in the very pleasing restaurant next to the church in Lachatao, which precluded our trying to ride back to Cuajimoloyas under our own power while there was still daylight.

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The ride from Benito Juarez through Cuajimoloyas to Llano Grande is one of the easiest treks in the Pueblos Mancomunados, as it takes place mainly on a paved road and has relatively little elevation change along the way — at least compared to other rides in the Sierra Norte mountains. Given the altitude of nearly 10,000 feet (3048 meters), you’re riding on top of the world. You will often see clouds in the forest below you as you swoop along this wonderfully scenic route.

While all three of these very small villages are quite charming, Llano Grande is the most unique, with an architectural style and flavor that made me feel like I had stumbled into an elfin enclave in Bavaria or been somehow transported to the world of Hobbits. Each town has an ecotourism center where you can get information, hire trail guides or rent cozy cabins for overnight stays.

If you do the out-and-back ride, sticking to the road both ways, it will take you 20.5 miles (33.0 km) through gently rolling terrain, sometimes in dense forest and at other moments presenting panoramic vistas. The overall elevation gain & loss riding back and forth is 2330 feet (710 meters). There are no demands for technical bike-handling skills on this trip. However, the altitude may present some physical challenges to those who venture here from sea-level locations.

The map below, however, includes a section of excellent fire road that plunges down, up and around through the woods between Llano Grande and Cuajimoloyas. It is a delightful addition to the simple out-and-back ride on the main road. Including this lollipop loop will boost your total mileage to 23.6 miles (38.0 km). Along the way you will climb 3015 feet (919 meters) and drop 2949 feet (899 meters). A word of caution, though. There are lots of unmarked intersecting logging roads in the area. Exercise caution so that you don’t get lost or wind up far from your intended destination! Give yourself plenty of time and carry lots of water.

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The World Wildlife Fund sponsors a forest preserve in the Sierra Norte mountains immediately north of Oaxaca. The preserve is sizeable, extending 15 miles (24 km) from La Cumbre to Santa Catarina Ixtepejic. The area is criss-crossed with old logging trails that are now closed to vehicular traffic, but are terrific for hiking and mountain biking. There is a fee of 50 pesos to gain entrance to the reserve, and guides are available, if desired.

This particular out-and-back ride goes a total of 19.8 miles (32 km) from the entrance station on highway 175 on one of the many interconnecting trails in the woods. The elevation gain going in and coming back out comes to 3742 feet (1140 meters). And don’t forget that you are operating at an altitude of about 9000 feet (274 meters), to begin with. This ride is rated “Moderate.”

There are no grand vistas or archeological ruins to be had here. Just the peace and tranquility to be found in the deep forest. Be aware that the temperature in the cloud forest is usually about 20 degrees Fahrenheit (6.6 degrees Celsius) lower than conditions in Oaxaca. Morning fog and drizzle is commonplace, even in the dry season, so dress accordingly.

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If you are in the mood for a killer climb, then this ride from San Felipe (or Oaxaca) to San Pablo Cuatro Venados will surely put a smile on your face. It will also certainly sear your lungs and burn your legs!

Cuatro Venados sits high atop the ridge of the mountains that form the western rim of the Etla Valley, one of three of the Valles Centrales around Oaxaca city. There are stunning views from the sinuous dirt road that winds up from the valley floor. There is also an impressive waterfall in the ecotourism park a couple of miles beyond the village (where this particular ride ends).

This out and back ride clocks in at 48.5 miles (78 km) with an elevation gain of 6326 feet (1928 meters) for the round trip. Yikes! Better eat your Wheaties before you set out! The ride is rated “Difficult” because of the length, altitude and steepness of the grade. There are no technical sections to navigate, however, as the entire route is on paved or unpaved roads.

For another variation on a ride focusing on this area, see “Cuatro Venados Loop” ride on this page, above.

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