Category: Countryside

Looping Through Life On A Bike

Sunday, 31 July 2022 was (another) gorgeous day for a mountain bike ride. Our route was one of our favorites – a long loop from Oaxaca to San Felipe Tejalápam to San Andrés Ixtlahuaca and back to Oaxaca. We zig-zagged a bit and wound up crossing the same stream multiple times just past Tejalápam. There are at least three roads that snake over the ridge of hills separating San Felipe and San Andrés. We chose the longest because it was the least steep of the lot, though still a formidable climb. The Ixtalhuaca valley was especially beautiful, with the farm fields and hillsides a vibrant green. All told, we pedaled 50.9 kilometers (31.6 miles), with an elevation gain and loss of 493 meters (1618 feet). There were no mechanical problems or flat tires to mar the ride, which ran five hours from 9 am to 2 pm. The weather forecast was for rain in the Valles Centrales sometime after two o’clock, and we saw dark storm clouds developing along the Sierra Norte. Happily, we stayed dry – except for those stream crossings. Sorry, no one in the group took any photos along the way to share with you.

Dancing With The Danzante

The last two weeks of July are a festive time in Oaxaca because that is when the Guelaguetza takes place. The Guelaguetza is the largest festival of indigenous dance and music in Mexico and attracts spectators from far and near. Today’s ride (Sunday, 24 July 2022) was, appropriately, an excursion to the giant statue of the Danzante of Zimatlan. Nearby on the same hill is a small outdoor theater where a troup of local dancers were rehearsing for a show to take place later. Our bikers enjoyed watching the performance after climbing to the top of the hill for a closer look at the Danzante and to admire the view out over the Zimatlan valley. A total of eight riders – four gringos and four natives – took part in the excursion, which covered a round-trip distance of 56 kilometers (35 miles) with an elevation gain and loss of about 152.5 meters (500 feet). As happens frequently on rides that pass by Zaachila, the group opted to stop at the local mercado gastronomic for either a late breakfast or early lunch. From that point it was an uneventful ride back to Oaxaca, except for a light rain that dampened our jerseys but not our spirits. All in all, it was a good day’s ride!

Tooling To Teitipac

Andy B. planned this outing for our weekly Sunday bike ride. He laid out a long loop to take riders deep into the Tlacolula valley and back. Cyclists would take the bike path to Tule, then ride backcountry roads through Rojas de Cuauhtémoc, Santa Rosa Buena Vista and San Sebastian Teitipac before arriving at San Juan Teitipac, our destination and turnaround point. The group rested and purchased food and beverages at the Sunday market behind the old Dominican monastery in the center of town. Following a slightly different route home, the group pedaled through Santa Cruz Papalutla, San Sebastian Abasolo and Santa Maria Guelacé before once again passing through Santa Maria el Tule on the last leg of the journey. There were eleven riders in the group, which consisted of seven men and four women. Three of the cyclists were newcomers to the band and handled the ride quite well. Moving at a leisurely pace, the riders covered a total of 61.5 kilometers (38.2 miles), with a modest 286.5 meters (940 feet) of elevation gain and loss on the circuit. With several stops along the way for refreshments, it took 6.5 hours to complete the ride. The weather was perfect for such an excursion through the countryside, with overcast skies that kept the temperature below the 26º C (80º F) mark.


Mil Rios Redux

As noted previously, the Mil Rios trail a few miles from Tlalixtac is a popular destination for Oaxaca cyclists. Getting from the city to the trailhead is an easy ride on mostly level dirt roads and takes about 90 minutes. There is a toll station at the trailhead where riders have to pay 20 pesos each. Once past the graded dirt road that serves the several dams built along the stream, the trail becomes a single track that winds through the woods and crosses the creek multiple times. Since the Mil Rios trail begins in the high Sierra Norte mountains not far from La Neveria, riders can go as far up the valley as they want or can manage. The further you go, though, the steeper the trail gets. And when cycling uphill you have to keep a careful watch for bikers screaming down the trail. On today’s ride – Sunday / 10 July 2022 – ten bikers set out from Santo Domingo at 9 am. Two had to turn around before leaving the city, and another two turned back at the trailhead, leaving just six to complete the ride. It was a lovely day, and everyone enjoyed the outing.


Dodging Raindrops

The summer rainy season has begun in earnest in Oaxaca, and so the weatherman plays a deciding role in planning and executing rides. On this Sunday ride (19 June 2022) the goal was to pedal to Teotitlan and back. Three riders set out from Santo Domingo at 9 am, with the goal of passing through Tule, Tlacochahuaya, Dainzu and Macuilxochitl before reaching the turn-around point in Teotitlan. However, clouds building above the Sierra Norte suggested it would be wise to stop the ride at the ruins of Dainzu and head for home before things got wet. That turned out to be a good decision, as raindrops began to fall as our group wrapped up the ride. Of special note was the number and variety of bike riders on the trail today. We encountered nearly two hundred cyclists on our 4.5 hour outing, including a large group of sixty or so riders of all ages clustered in the zocalo in Tule. Upon inquiry, we learned the riders where from seven different clubs in Oaxaca. It was gratifying to see so many riders again after the hiatus in group rides caused by the pandemic.

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