The La Reina trail is a very steep gravel road which links San Andres Huayapam with the ecotourism camp at La Cumbre Ixtepeji at over 9000 feet in altitude. This is a killer climb and, conversely, a screamer descent. The elevation gain amounts to 2378 feet in the space of 3.7 miles, with a gradient of 20% in some places. Your legs and lungs better be in top condition and your bike equipped with a good granny gear to make it to the top; and your brakes will get a heck of a workout on the way down. The map below shows the way, but note that this ride stopped short of the top of the mountain. Access to the trail is from Martires street. Note: there is a fee of 50 pesos (in 2024) to use the trail, payable at a toll booth at the bottom of the road just outside Huayapam.
It is a steady and steep climb up the mountain from Huayapam to La Cumbre. Though not far as the crow flies, the uphill grind seems never ending. From near the top of the mountain there are panoramic views of the entire valley of Oaxaca.
There is an epic new trail near Oaxaca deserving of mention here. Under construction for two years, the Camino de Juarez is set to open in March 2024. In all likelihood, though, it will not be completed for another year or two, given the work yet to be accomplished. As envisioned, the trail will run from San Pablo Guelatao – the birthplace of renowned Oaxaca native, Benito Juarez – to the outskirts of the capital city. The trail commemorates the twelve-year-old orphan’s solo walk from his hometown to Oaxaca in 1818, leaving behind his years as an unschooled shepherd boy to embark on a lifetime of stellar achievements as a student, lawyer, state governor, supreme court justice and president and savior of Mexico during the war of the French Intervention. A contemporary of Abraham Lincoln in the U.S., Juarez can fairly be called the father of the modern state of Mexico.
The Camino de Juarez winds for 29 miles (46.5 kms) through the mountainous terrain of the Sierra Norte, starting at an elevation of 5790 feet (1765 meters) in Guelatao and concluding at 5020 feet (1530 meters) at the Juarez monument in Tlalixtac where highway 175 intersects with highway 190 (the Panamerican Highway).
The highest point on the trail is 9246 feet (2818 meters). There is an elevation gain of 7631 feet (2326 meters) running from Guelatao to Oaxaca, with an elevation loss of 8333 feet (2540 meters) along the way. The paved trail has some steep segments containing lots of steps. There are pedestrian overpasses in the several places where the trail crosses highway 175. The Camino de Juarez is amenable to hikers, backpackers, joggers and bicyclists.
As of January 2024 most of the bridges that will carry the Camino de Juarez over the highway have been completed. A few segments of the trail – like this one near Tlalixtac – are ready to go. However some access roads are still under construction. Good portions of the new trail have been graded and some partial pavement put in place. But even in these areas much work needs yet to be done. And in some places the trail is still nothing more than a narrow footpath.
There are miles of backcountry roads and a snaggle of single track trails in the hills north and west of Santiago Suchilquitongo that are a lure to mountain bikers looking to explore new territory. This post recounts two similar but distinct rides.
RIDE ONE: To scratch the itch of adventure, two cyclists set out from Oaxaca to shuttle their bikes 33 kilometers (20.5 miles) to Suchilquitoingo one morning, intent on discovering what that region has to offer. This being an exploratory trip and a first-time visit, the day’s route rested on a roll of the dice as to which direction to ride. First up was a trek up the hill just west of the cuota to Mexico City past the Technologico Nacional de Mexico. What started as a promising ride on an unpaved country lane soon devolved into a jeep road and then a narrow, ill-defined single track which climbed up to a ridge overlooking the valley spread below. Near the top the trail became so faint and steep the riders deemed it best to turn around and retrace their path. Back in the valley, the cyclists had better luck following a freshly-graded road winding westward past two reservoirs, with the road climbing steadily upward for a number of miles. After pedaling for two hours, the pair decided to head back, calling the day’s excursion a success. The stats for the day are: 22 kilometers (13.7 miles) ridden, with an elevation gain and loss of 596 meters (1956 feet). See first map, below.
RIDE TWO: Intrigued by the road which seemed to wind ever higher and deeper into the nearby mountains, cyclists returned a second time to explore the area further. Turns out this old road is a winner! The lower portion is mainly sundrenched, but the upper sections offer good forest shade. The first five miles provide moderate climbs and descents as the track weaves through the woods. The next 1.3 miles are steeper, with grades of 8 to 15 percent. The final seven-tenths of a mile climb is a challenge, with lots of loose sand and a gradient of up to 20% in places. An ebike is a real asset and is definitely in its element here! The ride stats are: distance 21.7 km (13.5 miles) / elevation gain & loss 781 meters (2563 feet) / ride time of 2.5 hours on ebikes. See second map, below.
Scampering up a trail in the hills near Huitzo.A spectacular view of the countryside. The first of two reservoirs on today’s outing. The same reservoir seen from further up the mountain.The long, winding road up into the mountains. Lots of zigging and zagging along the way. Deep in the forest and high on the hill.
This post is a companion to the earlier entry of 10 October describing the brutal climb to the top of the ridge just west of Jalapa del Valle. There is a newly-paved road winding up the long, steep mountainside leading to Santiago Tlazoyaltepec. Getting to the top is a real challenge, even for riders with strong legs and powerful lungs. Two adventurous cyclists did the climb of 1087.5 meters (3568 feet) over 28.3 kilometers (17.6 miles) in 3 hours, 20 minutes, having first used a shuttle to get from Oaxaca to Jalapa del Valle. Jalapa sits at an elevation of 1721 meters (5645 feet), while the road hits a high point of 2808 meters (9213 feet). The brake-burning descent, by comparison, took just 28 minutes, after which the riders enjoyed a well-deserved lunch at the rustic but competent Comedor Campestre in the center of Jalapa. (Suggestion: try the wonderful shrimp platter for just 150 pesos.)
The new pavement on the road to Tlazayotepec gives a smooth ride but is still a formidable climb.A memorial marker along the way. Was Noe, perhaps, a cyclist who succumbed on the long haul up the mountain?The turnoff to El Portezuelo, a tiny village near the top of the mountain. A pet parrot enlivens lunch at the rustic comedor in Jalapa del Valle.
The rural village of Jalapa del Valle, situated in the valley of the Rio Jalapilla some 20 kilometers (12.5 miles) west of Oaxaca city, is a favorite destination for many a solo or group bike ride. Few cyclists, though, climb the steep, rocky and eroded logging road that runs from Jalapa to the top of the mountain ridge demarcating the edge of the Valley of Oaxaca. That is what this post is about. The map below shows the trail one way from the center of Jalapa to almost the top of that ridge, so the round trip distance comes to 15.7 kilometers (9.8 miles). The elevation gain and loss remains at 648 meters (2127 feet). This is a serious and unrelenting uphill challenge, made more difficult by the poor condition of the road, which is strewn with loose rubble and gouged by erosion. Going back down – though much faster than the climb – is no picnic, either. The gradient varies between 12% and 16% much of the way, so your brakes get a good workout, as does your ability to pick a good line through the many water channels cut across the trail. The dedicated cyclist who ventures this way has the option of riding the entire distance from Oaxaca or using a shuttle to start the ride in Jalapa del Valle.
The dirt road leading west from Jalapa del Valle to the top of the ridge five miles distant.Herding a flock of sheep and cattle up the valley. The view from the ridgetop looking east over the Valley of Oaxaca.
